“Menswear Fall 2011: Milan.”

Alexander McQueen (2)Alexander McQueen (3)Alexander McQueen (4)Alexander McQueen (13)Burberry (4)Burberry (3)Burberry (6)Burberry (5)Jil Sander (5)Jil Sander (4)Jil Sander (2)Jil Sander (1)Costume National (4)Costume National (2)Costume National (3)00330m00030m00050m00110m00210mEdun (4)Edun (5)Edun (3)Edun (1)Trussardi (3)Trussardi (4)Trussardi (2)Trussardi (5)Moschino (1)Moschino (2)Moschino (3)Moschino (4)Prada (3)Prada (1)Prada (4)Prada (2)

Let’s start praising Sarah Burton, her second outing for Alexander McQueen’s menswear was completely, literally, visually and obviously military inspired. Reason why the whole collection reminded me of Christoph Waltz character in Quentin Tarantino’s Inglorious Basterds. The modern and characteriscally touch of McQueen came via the flame-gold-ish satin printed shirt and blazer. Favorite Look: look 1 here, the school-band-looking jacket and white pants combo. Moving on to Burberry, Christopher Bailey presented a collection which strikes my brain saying “it’s a transition from child to rebellious teenage years”. The English school boy (think of Billy Elliot) coats pictured in light colors such as sky blue and apple green (both my personal favorites, i’ll give away one lung for the sky blue coat). The transition came with the -almost-rock-star-inspired- fur t-shirts and the dark tones in tailored-to-perfection- jackets and coats. Favorite Look: look 2 here. Jil Sander is known for it’s simplicity and modern take on clothes, and so Raf Simons. True, one of the main references was his Jil Sander womenswear spring 2011 collection, which i think he re-interpreted for mens. The interesting thing is how he used bold colors (a regular thing for Raf) and man-made fabrics in classic knitted sweaters and boxy tailored suits. My favorite look was the raspberry colored suit. At Costume National, Enio Caspasa presented a very urban, down-town, collection that had references of inspiration from James Chance (it actually came to my mind while i was watching [watching the runway video] the collection before the review came out, isn’t it weird and cool?). Mohair, one of the fluffy-est fabrics was presented in thin sweaters, stripped or with printed geometric shapes, but always in two tones. The experimental and coolest piece was the tuxedo jacket, but with a twist, it was a knitted tuxedo jacket with leather lapels. Favorite Look: the third one pictured here. Now, What would be a Consuelo Castiglioni collection for Marni without prints? Nothing. She presented for fall 2011 a collection full of easy shapes in heavy looking fabrics mixed with quirky and cool prints juxtaposed to create and even quirkier and cooler prints (a thing we all love about Marni). Favorite Look: the moss green, orange and black stripped long sleeved sweater and pants combo (it reminded me of some old pajamas i had when i was a kid). Edun was one of the final shows presented during Milan Fashion Week this season. Sharon Wauchob presented a very laid back, slightly grungy collection mixed with rock and roll coolness. The silhouettes were the perfect combination of not-to-tight and not-to-loose garments that flattered a skinny frame (another reason to loved it even more). Favorite Look: the third one positioned here. Trussardi was said to be one of the main events during Pitti 2011, mostly because the house is celebrating it’s centenary in the fashion and leather goods business. And what a way to celebrate the house that is known for producing amazing leather goods than doing a collection full of leather, every single piece, everything was leather. It was an interesting decision, and it exploded with such grace. With a modern motorcycle-biker-vibe the collection presented normal garments and shape, like the poncho/parka/cape made from the finniest and most luxurious looking leather (i think i’m gonna get a call from Peta, i’ve mentioned the word leather to many times). Favorite Look: the 4 and last one look here. Rosella Jardini (one of my favorite designers) and Bill Shapiro after a spring collection that i did not liked at all, they somehow managed to bring back the quirkiness of the brand. Aside from the fact that they took inspiration in rugby uniforms, they also presented nice tailored pieces, mixing the bad rebel boy and the good nerdy boy (see the first and last look here). I’m a sucker for anything blue or in every existent shade of blue, and that blue suit reminded of trashy prom suits from the 80’s (and i loved it). Favorite Look: las look here. And to conclude with this LONG review, we have Prada. Miuccia and her always weird's (in a good way) themes. Mix the seventies, a priest, and an avon-salesman (if they exists, i think they do), and you have Prada’s fall 2011 collection. The breaking point from all the dark colored boxy suits came via the emerald green lurex sweater (which i’m lusting and drooling over it) and the psycodelic prints in different sweaters. Favorite Look: 3rd look here.

source: Style dot Com.


Andrés Corella said...

Nice choices...for me...the third look in the first row...just perfect


Antonio Emanuele Feuillebois said...

Thanks, yup, that's one of my favorites.